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Before and after the Spring Festival in Beijing and Tianjin
Peach cultivation is influenced by a variety of factors, including the type of variety, management techniques, and market prices. However, the use of cold greenhouses, particularly in regions like Beijing and Tianjin, plays a significant role in determining the productivity and profitability of peach trees. During the period before and after the Spring Festival, cold greenhouse peach cultivation becomes crucial. Based on years of observation and practical experience, the following management practices should be emphasized:
First, the timing of covering the greenhouse is essential. For cold greenhouse peaches, which lack insulation facilities, the temperature rises due to sunlight exposure, and the film helps maintain warmth. This leads to large day-night temperature differences. The optimal time to cover the greenhouse is around February 20, ensuring that flowering occurs between March 25 and 31, with fruit maturing in early June—about 10 to 15 days earlier than open-field peaches.
For warm-type cold greenhouses, each shed (approximately 350–450 square meters) is equipped with a heating unit placed near the center. These units burn firewood, briquettes, or bituminous coal, and the hot air is distributed through flues on both sides of the structure. Alternatively, three stoves can be installed on each side of the shed, each with six chimneys, to ensure even heat distribution. The optimal time for warming these greenhouses is from February 2 to April 4, leading to flowering between March 15 and 31, with fruit maturing between May 25 and 31—about 20 days earlier than conventional planting.
After covering the greenhouse, careful temperature control is necessary. During the day, temperatures should not exceed 20°C. If the temperature drops to 18°C, vents should be closed immediately, and any gaps should be sealed. A 3-meter-high wind barrier should be constructed on the northern side of the greenhouse to provide additional protection. Gradual warming is key; maintaining high temperatures before flowering can negatively impact flower bud development and lead to premature leaf growth, which reduces fruit set and yield. It is recommended that the period from covering the greenhouse to flowering lasts about 35 days. During the first week, daytime temperatures should range between 10°C and 18°C, not exceeding 20°C. In mid-day, temperatures should stay between 12°C and 20°C, with a maximum of 22°C. Before flowering, the temperature should remain between 14°C and 23°C, avoiding anything above 25°C.
Three to five days after covering, a 1.5-meter-wide mulch should be placed between the trees. About ten days later, watering should begin when the soil is nearly thawed, but care must be taken to avoid excessive water that could lower soil temperature.
Pest and disease prevention is also important. A mixture of lime sulfur should be sprayed once during the bud expansion stage, ensuring thorough coverage.
Before flowering, pruning should be done to improve tree structure and fruiting potential. Remove branches with few or no flowers on the upper and outer parts of the canopy. Eliminate weak and dense branches in the lower and middle sections. Lightly prune long shoots while preserving fruit-bearing twigs, allowing them to be moderately pruned after fruiting to promote ventilation and balance tree vigor.
During flowering, controlling pests such as aphids is critical. Spraying a solution of imidacloprid (3000 times dilution) combined with manganese zinc (800 times) or using a 1500 times dilution of another insecticide can effectively manage infestations.
Flower temperature regulation is crucial. Daytime temperatures should be maintained between 14°C and 22°C, with a maximum of 25°C. Ventilation should be used to cool the greenhouse when temperatures reach 20°C, typically around 3–4 PM. At night, if temperatures drop below 5°C, heating should be initiated to prevent frost damage to blossoms.
Artificial pollination significantly increases fruit set, though it requires careful management. Using a backpack sprayer or duster for pollen application during the morning hours (when there is no dew) has proven effective. If certain varieties are not self-pollinating or if pollinators are scarce, hand pollination may be necessary to avoid reduced yields.
Spraying a solution of 20 ml gibberellin per liter, along with 0.3% urea and 0.3% borax, shortly after flowering, followed by a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray at full bloom, can enhance fruit setting.
Controlling new shoot growth is also important. After 15 days of flowering, main pruning should be performed, and the trunk should be cut again after 10 days to redirect nutrients toward fruit development. For vigorous trees, a paclobutrazol spray (150 times dilution) can help regulate growth.
Finally, strict fruit thinning is essential. The first thinning should occur one week after flowering, removing small, diseased, or double fruits. The second thinning should take place 25 days after flowering, based on the principle of "producing per mu," "quantifying per tree," and "observing branches to set fruit." Strong trees and branches can retain more fruit, while weaker ones should have fewer. Long fruit branches can hold 3–5 fruits, short fruit branches 1–2, and fruit-bearing twigs 2–3. Additionally, keep more fruits on the upper and outer parts of the canopy where light is better, and reduce fruit load in the inner and lower sections.